The best way to approach the Duomo, the nucleus of this hot dense city is over several days, catching a glimpse of its spires shimmering in the summer heat, as it pulls you into its orbit. Eventually, you will be drawn elliptically into its piazza, magically chancing upon it from an angled street or better still, from the air. And as you do, you will have to be prepared to grasp at this giant perfect fragile fragment of a snowflake that seems as though it might splinter into a thousand shards, or shimmer away, at any moment. Then,what will ground you?

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